Lofoten: Flakstad

Day 10 Flakstad

After the enjoyable but strenuous paddle round Lofotodden and up the full length of the north western side of Moskenesøya over the past three days, combined with Amy’s brush with cold yesterday, our energy levels were low, and a rest day was called for. It was a calm day, but with light showers and a grey sky. We spent the morning between our tent and the service block for the campsite, where we had a table and could charge our devices.

By early afternoon, I was feeling my energy levels were back up, but Amy was still enjoying sitting about. Our stocks were low, and it was a few km to the nearest shop, so I decided that I would head out for a shopping trip – by kayak. It was amazingly mirror flat calm conditions, with about 1 cm of long period swell, and the mist hanging in the mountains made for some spectacular views. The conditions were particularly striking given the contrast to the big swells and wind of the last few days. In today's conditions I felt no problem paddling solo, and I made sure to have all my safety kit in with me. In addition to paddling to the shop I went for a short exploration of the local area, paddling around Torvøya on the way to the shop. Along either side of the island I experienced gentle river-like features due to the tidal currents round it.

In the shop I filled a trolley with food for several days on the campsite, plus several more for our paddle round Flakstadsøya, and Vestvgsøya, as the next point where we would have access to a shop would be on Gimsøya. It was a slightly strange weekly shop, with food selected for durability, and pack-ability for most of it, but two days’ worth of bulkier items (eggs, fresh juice, bananas, cinnamon buns, crisps...). We had already decided to stay some more nights at the campsite as the forecast was for increasing winds from the north (potentially 12 m/s) and we had read that the journey round the north of Flakstandsøya and Vestågsøya was best not attempted in northerly winds.

By the time I had done the shopping and loaded it into my kayak, I was already nearing the time that I said to Amy that I would be back, so I gave her a ring to let her know I would be late.

On my paddle back, I took the outside of Justholmen, in still gloriously flat calm water. Shortly after rounding the end of the island, and with the campsite now in view, I started spotting dorsal fins in the water, and sat and floated about for several min as I watched dolphin-like creatures (maybe harbour porpoise?) swim around in the waters around me. It was quite magical, adding to the various birds I had enjoyed watching already during the day. Back at camp we cooked the bag of frozen “pytt i panna” which I had bought, and fried some eggs for dinner. We had set up the tarp by our tent so that there was room for us to sit under it and cook, as well as a place to keep all our gear out of our kayaks, without filling up the porch of our tent.

Given that we were staying at a surf beach camp, and the conditions were warning us off kayaking due to potentially big seas, we decided to enquire about the possibility of joining a surf course during one of the days where we would be land-bound. Tomorrow (which was still forecast for kayak-able weather) was fully booked, but the day after (where we had zero intentions of kayaking due to high winds from the north) had availabilities. We signed ourselves up eagerly. I have never surfed before, and Amy has only tried it once in Cornwall many years ago. It also coincidentally happened to be one day before Amy’s birthday, so could count as a birthday treat.

Day 11: Flakstad

Despite earlier forecasts, the weather looked quite inviting. The winds were expected the winds to increase later in the day, and tomorrow still looked like we would be land based. We had made good progress thus far and had surfing booked for tomorrow, so were in no rush to change our plans just to gain half a day of paddling. We instead got kitted up for a day paddle exploring the local area. As we set off it was ideal conditions, with little wind or waves. I had expected to head towards Ballstad and up the fjord there, as I had done yesterday, but Amy fancied exploring Flakstadspollen, so we turned right out of the camp. Amy was feeling a little off-form, so progress was slow, but the views were great.

Just before we stopped for lunch, we spotted what we had taken to be fishing kayaks when we saw them on land at the camps site, but were in fact funny-looking long fishing peddalos! After lunch we were faced with a moderate, and increasing headwind. Faced with this slight challenge Amy and her kayak were suddenly best friends again, and I had to paddle at a good pace to keep up.

It was a pleasant paddle back round to the campsite. When we arrived at the beach, we joined the crowds on surfboarders enjoying the newly blown-up surf. We had some fun surfing in our kayaks. The conditions where not ideal for it, but we each enjoyed paddling in and out, catching several waves each. We looked forward to trying out the conditions on a surf board with the others tomorrow, as we sat down for a dinner of frittata.

Day 12: Surfing at Flakstad (Lofoten Beach Camp)

Amy takes up the writing…

Misty, windy, grey, raining and thoroughly uninviting, and yet I was still keen to get started. We had to wait till 11:30 for the course to start so I did all the small tasks which can build up over time. We ate breakfast hiding in the campground's rest area and went over the plans for the next stage. I could tell Callum already had itchy feet, we hoped that the weather for the next day would allow us to move on, even though I was rather enjoying the chill vibe and sandy beaches at the campsite (oh and the access to running water / toilets etc).

We ate a quick snack as the course members gathered, aware that it would be easy to forget lunch. First steps were finding everyone the correct wetsuit, mittens and shoes. Considering the weather, we were both concerned about keeping warm enough during the course, but the kit offered was excellent. Thick wetsuits, with warm booties and mittens. They were even given to us dry (which can be quite difficult to organise in a busy location, in the rain).

We were introduced to the basics of surfing. Having heard Callum and I chatting one of the others on our course suggested we might need it in English when the instructor started up in Norwegian. I was quick to calm any concerns there, but it turned out only one of the two instructors spoke Norwegian, so after a basic introduction in Norwegian and an unsteady walk to the beach carry what were effectively large windsails (i.e. surfboards) with a pair of mittens that were too big, we ended up in the half of the group taught in English (I can’t say I minded as it was difficult enough to hear over the wind, never mind when the waves would be crashing on us).

Many of the group we were with had tried surfing several times, or at least new which foot to go in front. Just Callum and I had to go through the test to see if you were left or right foot forward. My results were decidedly unclear. Having been gently pushed over from behind by the instructor I landed both feet first. Again, and again and again. I offered to just fall by myself and this greater stumble led to the suggest that maybe my right foot should get the leash of the surf attached. In typical fashion I would later jump up on the surfboard with my right food in front. Get slightly tangled, then quickly drop to my knees and ride the wave in like that. Callum was more decidedly right foot forward.

The wind speed was 10m/s with gusts and coming from the North, sending the waves crashing straight onto shore. Just like with kayakers trying to play in the surf the ideal conditions for surfing were waves but no wind. In particular older waves which had time to build up and spread out are good for surfing, not the short crashing waves we had. The onshore wind and fresh new waves make it more difficult to get beyond the breaking waves and you have very little time to prepare between waves, making it harder to catch the surf correctly. With the strong onshore wind, if you were not careful, when pushing your board over a breaking wave the wind could catch the front of the board and blow it back over or onto you, which was be painful.

Stage one was to get beyond the crashing waves, then attempt to catch one as we were pushed in. Ideally switching into the acceleration position (think of a stretched up seal). Callum was surprisingly good at it. All those years of swimming training helped him force his way out through the breaking waves and sheer determination/motivation provided the push to climb up from his board. I was perhaps a tad lazier, particularly as the hours went on and would continue to lie in the acceleration position on the board as I rode the wave in.

We spent 3 hours with the coach and then another 3 hours surfing by ourselves. I could see the addictive nature, but was aware that the “just one more good wave” attitude could lead to us getting hurt. It was a fantastic way to spend the day. We had both thoroughly enjoyed the experience, and were very pleased by how many waves we had actually managed to surf (either standing, kneeling or lying), rather than just floundering in the water. As kayakers who enjoy being in big swell, and surfing, and rock hopping, it was very interesting to experience the sea from a different angle, giving us a new perspective to take to our paddling. We both had tired shoulders the next day and it took several days for them to get back to normal. So much for taking a rest…