Vikna Circumnavigation (short version)

We're just back from a fabulous four day paddle round Vikna, where we enjoyed stunning scenery, and of wildlife. Another Trøndersk circumnavigation under our belts. We'll post the long version that we wrote while at our campsites once it is edited, but here is a short summary to get you going.

Day 1

The map promised a plethora of small islands to kayak between, and the weather forecast promised great weather - and boy did both deliver. Starting at Rørvik we paddled 30 km to Kløvningen in flat calm conditions through beautiful scenery, gliding past rocky islands and sandy beaches. The camp spot we had been recommended on Kløvningen did not disappoint! A lovelly sandy beach and a flat grassy meadow, below the 74 m peak of the island. After a tasty and hearty meal of spicy bean wraps, we enjoyed a walk up the hill in the evening sun.

Day 2

The wind had picked up, as forecast, and the landscape we were paddling through had grown taller, though no less rich in islands or beauty. Until around 1130 we paddled in relative shelter from the wind, but were then faced with battles against winds of 7 m/s, gusting to 12 m/s, as we progressed round the island. With the wind making itself felt, and forecast to build through the day and night, we had abandoned thoughts of paddling round Kalvøya and Brogan, and instead followed the coast of Ytter-Vikna. We found a sheltered campsite in the late afternoon after a 25 km day, and I managed to avoid the temptation to camp with the maximum view, instead opting for good shelter, with gusts of up to 20 m/s forecast overnight!

Day 3

The wind had dropped compared to overnight, but the forecast for the morning was still fairly severe. Our new rout plan looked well sheltered on the map, and was even better than expected in practice. The highlight of the morning's paddle, and quite possibly of the whole trip, was our paddle along the channel between Laøya, Hjoartøya and the Ytter-Vikna. It was stunning, and quite unlike anywhere I've paddled before. Out of the channel and turning south, the wind had dropped, but was still a good force against us, but we enjoyed being out on the swell of the more open sea. As the afternoon wore on, the wind dropped away completely, and when reaching our planned campsite at 3 pm we were in no mood to stop, and the drizzle was not encouraging us to do so either. We therefore decided to elongate the circumnavigation by including Lauvøya in the loop. The rugged cliffs of the west of the island contrasted with the tamer east side, which was home to hyttes and small farms. We found a nice camp spot, with a good view at Kvalpen on Inner-Vikna. Curiously, this is the first time in this year's trips (Vikna and Smøla) where we have camped on one of the islands that we have been circumnavigating, rather than a small island off their coast. Having re-checked the weather forecast, we went to bed somewhat apprehensive of the day to come, with strong winds forecast.

Day 4

We were up at 6, and on the water by 7:40, as the wind was forecast to build slightly as the morning went on, and we knew we had a battle on our hands. As forecast, the wind was blowing at 8 m/s, gusting to 13 m/s, and to start off with it was right in our faces. When reading the sea chart before the trip, I had mistaken a causeway for a bridge, which meant we would have to take a much less sheltered route back towards Rørvik, with more paddling into the wind, and much more time paddling without the shelter of land from the south east where the wind was coming from. Despite the challenging conditions, we made good progress and I very much enjoyed the paddle. As we approached Rørvik there was a little more shelter, and the whole day's route was a lot prettier that we had predicted. We ended up back at Rørvik by 10 am, very satisfied with the weekend's efforts. Despite the wind it was a glorious sunny day, which made the 5 hour drive home, including stunning fjords, a lot more enjoyable, but I do wish it was easier to do this sort of a trip using only public transport.